But remember, catadioptric scopes may have images that are vertically correct, but reverse the image left and right. Here is our continuing discussion of bird watching spotting scope features and how to choose a scope. Spotting Scopes Part I above discusses magnification, objective lens, exit pupil, eyepieces, field of view and optical design.
In Spotting Scopes Part II we will discusses body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus, weather proofing, and glass composition to help you choose a spotting scope. There are two basic body designs of refractor spotting scopes: straight and angled. Straight scopes have the barrel and eyepiece aligned with each other, angled scopes have the eyepiece offset 45 or 90 degrees from the barrel.
There are pros and cons for both. It's easier to follow birds that are moving and because we often use our spotting scope from inside the car with a window mount, a straight scope is not a problem. Many people fine the straight line of sight is easier for accurate aiming. A straight design is also easier to use from an elevated position.
For example, viewing your backyard birds from a second-story deck. On the other hand, if you are tall or do a lot of birding with groups, or most of your viewing is above the horizon looking at cliffs, viewing soaring raptors, birds on tree-tops than perhaps an angled design would be a better choice. An angled scope can be shared easier than a straight scope because more people of different heights can comfortable look into the scope without adjusting the height.
Think about how you will most often be using your spotting scope. This will help you decide which design best suits your needs. If you can, try different mechanisms and see which one works best for you. If you can't, then choose a knob focuser which is generally preferred for bird watching and nature viewing. Single Double Knob Helical Most common, slow but precise, not as accurate with fine focus 2 drive knobs.
Also light transmission can be increased by reducing reflections. This can be mostly eliminated with the right kind of glass and coatings. These elements will provide you with an image of higher clarity, detail, and sharpness which in turn will reduce eyestrain.
Of coarse scopes with these extras add extra cost. Another factor to weigh, but you'll be paying the cost in frustration when you can't see those details on that special bird on an overcast low-light day. Spend the extra money on your spotting scope, save by making coffee at home, renting movies, skip the fast-food, make your own x-mas or birthday presents. Not eating french-fries for a month may buy you the feathered look of a lifetime! Unless your scope is going to reside inside your home, weather proofing is not an option.
You never know when that rain cloud will just pop-up out of nowhere. Rubber armoring is also a nice addition. It provides protection against abrasive materials, corrosion and helps cushion the scope against unexpected impacts oops!
It is the distance in millimeters between the eyepiece of the spotting scope and your eye that still allows you to see a complete field of view image in focus. As an eyeglass wearer your eye is further away from the spotting scope eyepiece, which means a longer eye relief is needed in order to see the entire field of view. Without adequate eye relief, you won't get a complete field of view and find you'll need to remove your glasses in order to see the image properly.
As mentioned previously in the eyepiece section, there are eyepieces specifically made with long eye relief. You may also want to select eyepieces that have folding or rollback eyecups so you can get your eyes closer. Close or near focus is the distance between the scope and the nearest object you can focus on, while maintaining a good image and sharp focus.
In general, as magnification increases, the minimum close focal distance also increases. So scopes will typically have longer close focus ranges than binoculars. For bird watching, a short close focus is beneficial for seeing details of a bird that has landed up-close to your scope.
It is also better for taking photographs see digiscoping. So if this is important to you, selecting a scope with a close distance of 15ft or less would be optimal. And if it's not well built with strong housing, the first time it gets bumped when you're frantically grabbing it from your back seat to see that lifetime peep a.
So as with anything else, weigh the cost against the benefits, and get the best spotting cope you can afford. If you can't afford a Swarovski, Leica or Zeiss top-end, most expensive manufacturers then look at others such as Kowa, Nikon or Pentax which can have just as good designs, but be significantly lower priced. And don't forget to leave money in your budget for a sturdy tripod to support your scope, otherwise it's like putting a Mercedes on golf cart tires.
Hope you've enjoyed this review of spotting scope basics and we wish you the best in finding that perfect scope. Digiscoping - Photography with spotting scopes. Bird Watching Binoculars Best Binoculars for Bird Watching. High Power Binoculars - sometimes can be used as an alternative to spotting scopes if used with a tripod or monopod.
Jason Binoculars - Auto Focusing Binoculars. Best Zoom Binoculars. Best Mini Binoculars. Infrared Binoculars. Best Marine Binoculars. Cornell's Review of Birding Spotting Scopes. Best Bird Watching Spotting Scopes Below are considered some of the best bird watching spotting scopes for by price range. Angling the eyepiece upwards allows for multiple people of varying heights to view the same target without making any adjustments to the spotting scope or tripod.
Our folded light path system uses lighter mirrors rather than a heavy prism to create a more rugged, compact, and lightweight design.
This system also handles abuse better than prism systems, making it ideal for backcountry hunters or anyone else putting their optics through the paces. Leupold spotting scopes are broken down by series, with each series providing the clearest, brightest image in its class.
No matter what your needs or your budget, we have a series for you. Proven performance, outstanding image quality, wide field of view, and a compact size; our Gold Ring HD spotting scopes have it all.
Full-size models feature our unique Folded Light Path System, which uses mirrors rather than a heavy prism to create a more compact, lightweight design.
This system also handles abuse better than prism systems, making it ideal for hunters or anyone else putting their optics through the paces. The Gold Ring Compact spotting scopes maximizes pack-ability thanks to a lightweight, compact housing. We designed this spotting scope with one thing in mind — performance at the highest level in the toughest conditions.
Most spotting scopes range anywhere from 15x to 60x magnification. Magnification can also affect your field of view. The higher the magnification, the narrower your view. If you need to see broad landscapes, try cutting back on the power. The proper lens can be hard to choose, as well. Most spotting scope lenses range between mm, as this is an ideal range for light absorption. Keep in mind that larger lenses mean more weight, too. Coating is another factor with lenses.
For optimal brightness and color, fully multi-coated lenses are best. This can be perfect for steady observations, such as astronomy or surveillance. If you need versatility, you can always swap your eyepiece for a stronger one. But the benefit of a zoom lens is that you get that versatility automatically.
This is great for hunting or bird watching. A x zoom is a good average to cover your bases. Close focus is the distance at which you achieve image clarity. All good scopes now use coated lenses, and multi-coated lenses are the top standard. Low-quality lenses produce chromatic aberrations.
Check to see what term is used by each brand, or talk to your optics dealer about the characteristics of the lenses used. If you have to choose between higher quality lenses and higher power, the sharpest and clearest image will always make for a more satisfying experience. Most good scope models come in two configurations: straight and angled. If you generally go birding alone and if you get a sturdy, tall tripod, the straight-through view may be a better choice.
You can set the tripod so the scope is at your eye level, and use it for long periods of scanning. You can set the height so that the shortest person in your group can reach it, and then taller people simply have to lean over a little farther. And if you use a scope for sketching birds in the field, as I often do, an angled eyepiece is easier to use: You can look back and forth from the scope to your sketchbook with only a slight movement.
Typically you focus by turning a ring or knob on the barrel of the scope, which moves internal elements to give you a sharp picture. Some models have two-step focusing, with one knob that quickly shifts from close-up to infinity and one that makes much smaller adjustments for fine-tuned focus. If you have a chance to try out a scope, check to see if the focusing mechanism feels comfortable for you.
For example, we might be looking for critical marks on a hummingbird visiting a feeder, studying it from just a few yards away.
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