We then see the cassette chamber on the left, the vertical metal shutter in the center and a loose take up spool on the right, see the next figure. The reason for having a loose take up spool is that it can be interchanged by a take-up cassette. If you get a camera without a take-up spool, you can take a used 35mm cassette, open it, take out the spool and use it as a take-up spool.
To load the film, we first attach the lead of the film to the take-up spool. Then we insert the cassette into the left chamber and the take-up spool into the right chamber. We make sure that the film perforations engage with the sprocket teeth of the transport drum on the right of the shutter.
Closing the camera has to be done carefully. It is best to hold the camera upside down and hold the film in position with the left thumb while using the right hand to engage the back edges into grooves of the camera body. Upon closing the back completely, it may help to wiggle the lock on the side of the take up spool a bit until you feel the back engage.
Then completely lock the back. With that done you make two blank exposures. To advance the film, rotate the advance knob clockwise until it locks the take up spool is rotating counterclockwise , see the next figure. The shutter is found at the center of the film advance knob. After making the two blank exposures, rotate the rewind knob on the left in the direction of the arrow to tighten the film.
To set the shutter speed, lift the advance knob, rotate it to get the desired shutter speed and let it fall into the slot. The shutter speed may be set before or after advancing the film, but is recommended — for accuracy — to set it after advancing the film. This is a common procedure for all FSU rangefinder cameras.
Finally, use the thumb wheel in front of the film advance knob to set the frame counter on zero and you are ready to go. To use the exposure meter, the cover first has to be opened. For that, press the small button indicated in red in the next figure. To close the meter, fold back the latch and press it to the left camera in front of us with the lens pointing forward as indicated in blue. To use the meter, you use the calculator on the left of the camera top to find the correct exposure settings.
Start by setting the ISO value, see the figure, number 1 in green. The ISO value is indicated by the red arrow. For that rotation, use the two small knobs indicated in green number 1.
Here I have set the sensitivity to ISO , see the top green arrow number 1. For negative film the differences between the two are negligible. Next, open the exposure meter and point the camera to the scene you want to photograph.
By turning the outer rim of the calculator red curved arrow, number 2 , you get the needle to move so that it matches the diamond-shaped mark in the exposure meter window red arrow, number 2. If it is not possible to let the needle indicate the diamond-shaped mark because there is not enough light, guide the needle to the -2 or -4 marks and divide the shutter speeds by 2 or 4, respectively.
The overyear-old camera had obviously been taken care of and given tender loving care. All shutter speeds worked and seemed to be accurate. The rangefinder worked and seemed to be accurate. The self-timer worked. The lens was clean and focused easily, the aperture blades were oil-free and moved smoothly.
The camera came with a nice ever-ready case, showing only minor wear and tear. The only minor issues were the leatherette that was starting to get loose at the edges and the setting of the shutter speed that was not going very smooth, it needed some force.
The first issue was easily solved with a bit of glue. The second issue might not be an issue, but might be specific for the camera. I decided to give it an outer cleaning — although it did not need one — and run a film through, a roll of Kentmere PAN , to see if the shutter, shutter speeds and focusing are OK and if the body is light-tight. At the bottom of the inside, I found some light seal foam in good condition, confirming my assumption of a recent CLA.
I never use ever-ready cases. If you are shooting with an SLR camera, such a case is only useful if you are not intending to change lenses and stick to a 50mm. For protection, while traveling light, I decided to use the ever-ready case.
It did its job protecting the camera from rain and did not hinder me at all in taking pictures. So, I might have changed my opinion on ever-ready cases.
I started by comparing the exposure meter results with those obtained from a hand-held reflective meter. The results were spot-on! Using the exposure meter is something you do have to get used to. The calculator is not the troubling part for me, but mere the fact that you have to take a reading holding the camera at waist level to see the meter , while shooting at eye level.
It should be more of an indication rather than an exact measurement, given the earlier mentioned film exposure latitude. Focusing, using either the focusing wheel and rangefinder is very smooth. The viewfinder is very clear and if you lose the superimposed rangefinder image from time to time, the cure is always to remove a finger from the rangefinder window.
A much-read complaint on the internet is the limited view through the viewfinder and the metal ring scratching eyeglasses. I think that the viewfinder is very bright, giving an accurate viewing of the scene that will end up on the negative.
The glass-scratching is a serious problem indeed. I use contact lenses now after scratching my glasses to avoid this problem, which also gives me a better view.
May 17, 7. I had one and sold it to someone on APUG, in fact. I now have a MIR, which is essentially a Zorki 4 but without the slow speed escapement is this the correct word? It has a bigger viewfinder than the Fed-2, as well. Just my two cents. May 17, 8. I think the zorki 5 and 6 are the better one's. I placed a leica summarit 5cm on my zorki 6. I had some bad luck with some F. U lenes. The summarit has very shallow depth of field so the wide rangefinder base worked well for me. One of my other favorite russian camera's would be the mockba 5 or moscow 5 a copy of a 6x9cm ziess ikonta I've had both and can't tell the difference between the photo's taken with these 2 camera's.
May 17, 9. Regarding F. I would not try however May 17, I have some Zorki 1 and C's and FED 3's - I like the Zorki's better - smaller, and the collapsible lens is actually a good lens - it makes the camera small enough to fit in my pocket and it is reasonably sharp. The Zorki's are bottom loading cameras but once you learn how to load, it's not that much of an issue.
The Zorki's at least the ones I have have amazingly bright rangefinder patches - much easier to see than most modern rangefinders. The movable image is slightly yellow - so it's easier to pick out in a busy image. I don't know if this was an intentional design or if it is an artifact of aging but I find it easier to use than a modern rangefinder.
Messages: 29, BUT if you can swing it, why not look for some sort of in expensive folding press sort of 4x5 camera? May 18, Thanks Folks! There's one question still haunting me: is the lever or the knob more prone to a major breakage?
My Zenit 3M often skips frames, and I've had Zenit E transport serviced, both seem to be related to lever mechanism. But I've never had a camera with a knob. I guess but only guess less parts is better again, am I right? Last edited by a moderator: May 18, I've been inside there times and a now deceased respected FSU repairman couldn't fix it either. It's the dreaded advance spool sprocket problem I have tried the Kiev Survival page that deals with this problem specifically to no avail.
It's really a shame because the shutter is good and rest of the camera is in nice shape. No leak in subdued light but get out in some harsh sun and you're baked. Same spot in the middle, bottom of the frame every time. Anywhere from a slight flare to a full blown starburst effect emanating from the bottom of the frame top when in camera I gave up. An honorable mention is the Zorki 2. Not so many of these were made, but I have been able to find a cheap, working camera from time to time.
The Zorki 2 has a much-improved shutter mechanism, and still retains the apearance and pocketability of the original Barnack Leica. Other good features are strap lugs and a self timer. The last one I bought even had a flash synch. Winter months are busy for me TBH, winter is incredibly photogenic and days are short.
I can't stop myself from going out. Last winter was over 6 months long, warm at first and incredibly cold by the finish. One of those years when one could buy ice cream and eat it by a frozen lake, or cool down his or her forehead with some snow that's about to melt. It might superficially look like a Leica, Hassleblad or Contax but it isn't built like one and it certainly won't be as reliable as the original inspiration.
Then again, you don't buy old English sportscars for their reliability; you buy one for it's style and the chance to get your hands greasy - FSU cameras are the Triumphs of the camera world. To be honest, it wasn't as bad as I feared. The camera needed a little surface cleaning, the rangefinder needed to be calibrated and the shutter curtains could do with being tightened up a bit.
Less than an hour's fiddling and the FED was ready to be fed its first roll of film. The FED 2 does handle well.
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